Guide For Raising Your Puppy
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Dogs in the wild live in a den which provides protection and a great deal of psychological satisfaction. All dogs, therefore, have a strong natural tendency to seek out this type of shelter.
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In your home, if your dog has no place to call his own, he will make feeble attempts to curl up under a table, a chair or some other choice location.
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Give your puppy a place to feel secure…something to get his back up against. Make sure it provides visibility & ventilation…just like a baby in a playpen. | |
You will also be taking advantage of his natural instinct to keep his home clean, therefore, when he has to “go” he will try to hold it until you can take him outside to the proper area. | |
This will teach him a schedule and help him eliminate accidents. | |
With a designated place for him to go to and live in, your puppy will have fewer behavioral problems like excessive barking and chewing. | |
But most of all, by providing him a safe and secure home, he’ll be happier and more self confident. | |
Encourage your puppy to go into his home on his own. If necessary, toss a little treat in the home. DON’T FORCE HIM! He may quickly back out or be shy, but that’s normal. Just take it slowly. At first, don’t close the door on him, let him go in and out on his own. | |
Once he is happy and unafraid of his new home, simply restrain him at the door with your hand. Make him stay in the home for a few minutes, then gradually increase the time and be sure to praise him! | |
Once he is comfortable with this, (probably a few hours or days of short training sessions) simply restrain him at the door with the door—again praising him lavishly. Soon he will be secure in his home with the door closed. Slowly you can get further and further away from him, always praising his accepting behavior. Eventually, the pup will sit quietly and sleep in his home with the door closed. | |
Understand that little puppies need to “go” about every 2-4 hours. On a schedule, (such as after feeding, before bedtime, first thing in morning) let your puppy out, teach him the route to the door, praise him at the door and take him out to the part of the yard you want him to use. Very quickly, you are teaching him an elimination schedule that will stay with him for the rest of his life. | |
Some DOs and DON’Ts Of Crate Training
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DO… get your pup used to his new home gradually. Plan on taking plenty of quality time with him the first few days to get him accustomed to his new surroundings. DON’T… force your new pup into the home for the first time. |
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DON’T… put “housebreaking pads” or newspapers in your pet’s home. We are trying to take advantage of the pup’s natural instinct NOT to go in his home. | |
DO… supervise your pup anytime he is free in your home. Supervision is what allows you to direct behavior. Chewing, elimination, barking, and all other behaviors are all dependent on your direction. If allowed to be unsupervised, he will begin to direct his own behavior and schedule. | |
DON’T… let your new pup roam through your house unsupervised. Keep an eye on him so that when he sniffs and circles (an indication he has to go) you can quickly and gently guide him to the door and outside. | |
DO… provide soft, washable bedding in the home so that it is comfortable and warm. Make the inside of the home as cozy as you can. Keep it clean and free of fleas. | |
DON’T… leave your very young pup in his home all day. At 6 weeks a pup can hold his bladder about 4 hours; by 8 weeks, 5 hours; by 12 weeks, 6 hours and by 5 to 6 months an 8-hour work day. DON’T… punish your puppy by forcing him into his home. Your pup’s home should be his secure place, not associated with fear or anything negative. |